| Buying a ticket is the first step in getting from A to B, and here it`s no different. The larger cities will usually have offices with a ticketing section reserved for tourists with English speaking staff. Often there is a tourist quota of tickets too. If someone helpful with a flashy shirt and jewellery outside the station informs you that the tourist office has unfortunately burned down or closed, the chances are that it hasn`t, so look anyway.
Classes for Every Budget
Sleeping class is the most popular with tourists on a budget use, is not pricey at all and still reasonably comfortable, although people over 6ft tall may find it a bit cramped. If the journey is a long or overnight one, then this is definitely the best option. Some examples of prices are Delhi-Calcutta INR 433, (just under US$11) Delhi-Mumbai INR 425 (US$10); fares for sleeper class, provided you book ahead will rarely be more than US$20.
Second class (often called `no reservation`) is for hippies who want to feel at one with the Indian people, and even they don`t enjoy it. You`ve far more chance of conversation in a tiered carriage: a) there is room to speak, and b) generally people here are better off and more likely to speak English.
There are also a number of AC classes with fewer beds per compartment at a slightly higher cost. Compared to European train prices, it`s still almost nothing and it`s quite possible to keep to this class throughout a shorter holiday without breaking the bank.
Before Boarding
Finding your train`s platform is never really much of an issue. However, if you need to ask for help, never use a leading question, it`s no fun being bundled on to a train without quite being sure of its destination. Carriages are marked by small screens above the train once it has stopped, eg S2, S3...
Getting On to the Train and Enjoying the Journey
Sleeper class- if on arrival, if there are three people sitting on your reserved berth, don`t worry. Come nightfall it`ll be vacated and everyone should disperse to his or her allotted bunk. Make an effort at conversation, enjoy the ensuing interrogation, and feel free to be jut as direct. If you can, the top berth is the best one to grab (something you can request at the ticket office), lie with your feet up and survey the chaos of the carriage below. Victuals are not a problem. Their approach is heard from a few carriages down and as snacks and train food go, they`re top notch. Samosas, rice, curry, biscuits etc can all be had for a song and the chai doesn`t stop flowing, although there is nowhere else for the clay cups to go but out of the window Sleepon your bag and use it as a pillow, theft unfortunately does occur, even from underneath bunks. Wires and padlocks can be cut through.
2nd Class/No reservation- for idiots really, but makes a good story later. As the train pulls in, the swarm of humanity will mark out the unreserved carriages better than any sign will. Rush with it, pack held over your head and make a serious effort to get into the carriage before it stops, it will be half full by the time it does. This may be hard for Brits. Same drill as our friends in the next class up; bully your way to one of the top berths, sit on your bag and pat yourself on the back. For those who are too polite or slow, the space by the toilet can seem like an option, but is often just as or even more crowded than the carriage itself. Vendors don`t seem to care where they tread either.
Toilets
You shouldn`t be expecting much on the toilet front, even in the AC classes. Most of the time they are simply holes in the floor, and your own toilet paper is required.
Enjoying the View
Carriage doors are seldom shut in the day in safety conscious India due to the heat or overcrowding. Sitting on the top step is ideal for watching a Rajasthan sunrise or a Shillong sunset and can provide a nice break from the dark and crowded main carriage. You`ll need to be either very fat or have a friend you can wedge yourself in with to avoid falling out of the door, and watch out for spittle and chewing tobacco from the car in front!
Arriving at Your Destination
Another reason to strike up a conversation is to find out where and when your stop is. The country has a severe shortage of "Welcome to..." signs, and the stations themselves can be poorly labelled especially in more rural areas.
Train Jumping
Buying a 2nd class ticket and then unofficially upgrading yourself to a tiered car is not really worth it. On night trains where having a bed matters most, every berth will be taken 99% of the time and you`ll be left with the toilet end of the car. Ticket inspectors are vigilant, and although as a confused tourist you`re unlikely to face the 1000 INR fine or 6 months in prison, you will have to pay some kind of fee.
Train Safety
This is more common sense than anything (keep an eye on bags/valuables, don`t flash your cash etc), although girls may have to get used to being stared at and will feel much safer travelling in groups, or with a male friend.
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